Sunday, May 30, 2010

There's one other thing I didn't mention when I was writing about salt--that is: salt your salad greens in the bowl and let them sit a moment before tossing your salad with the dressing. I know, I know you're afraid they will wilt and become soggy. They won't. I learned this process form the French chef, Madeline Kamen--although I usually don't reveal my sources.
My friend Diane Starnick used to say the salads at my restaurant were so good because they had enough dressing--well, the idea here is that the salted lettuce takes the dressing in--this way you don't need as much and the flavor permeates the greens.
And, while I am on the salad subject--if you are using tomatoes in salad, cut them, add sliced onion if you are using it and some torn basil leaves--and some dried oregano. sprinkle with olive oil and salt. When you are ready to toss the salad, put the greens on top, salt them toss and then add the dressing--usually vinigrette for me.

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

dispelling the myths

Let's get to these ideas about cookng that are completely wrong.
Tomato sauce is not cooked for hours and hours--that only creates a sour acid sauce. One and a half to two hours is sufficent.
Salt doesn't kill you--just get rid of that iodized nonsense that the Morton hiers are living off of. Get some decent sea salt, Hain or the bulk sea salts you can find in places like Whole Foods or New Seasons. The mined pink mineral salt from Mexico has long been my staple.
Don't be afraid to use it.
Salt your pasta water--otherwise you end up with a bland pasta that requires a ton of parmigiano to correct it.
You also don't have to spend two fortunes on some of the designer salts that you might see in the above mentioned stores, but get familiar--the best cooks say, "change your salt and you will change your cooking" this is true.
Do not be afraid to salt beans as they are cooking--this is the way the flavor permeates the bean.
Remeber, before there ever was a refridgerator--salt was the main preservative.
Here's a folk tale: Attola the hun is credited with creating carpaccio-- they say that his band of maraurders placed the sliced beef under the saddles of their horses as they plundered in the carpathian mountains so that the salty sweat from the horses bodies preserved the meat.
Pretty ingenious, wasn't it ?
So, here's the tomato sauce recipe:
Two 28 oz. cans of plum tomatoes---I like Muir Glen the best
4-6 cloves of chopped garlic
a large handful of fresh basil
6-8 whole peppercorns
1/2 medium onion finely diced
2-3 tablespoons good quality olive oil
heat the oil in a sauce pan and add the garlic and onions and saute' until soft.
add the tomatoes and the torn basil leaves along with the peppercorns
bring to a simmer and allow this to cook for 1.5 to 2 hours
about 1/2 through the cooking, puree the softened tomatoes with and immersion blender or in the cuisinart and return them to thepan for the remainder of the cooking time.
correct the seasoning with salt at the end--tomatoes are acid and salty on their own that's why
it is added at the end--you may not even need it.
more later--strega

Sunday, May 23, 2010

how is this possible?

It's possible because like any true craft, you understand the principles, you don't memorize the recipes. There are three generations of people in this country who can't cook. Wonder why we have an obesity epidemic? If you can't cook you will NEVER control your weight. So, my objective here is to give some good simple (note: I didn't say easy) ways to feed yourself, your family and your friends. You might want to read Micheal Pollens little tome called food rules to get started. As time goes on, I'm going to give you some serious opinions, help and ideas about what it means to us as individuals and as a community when we seriously consider what we eat.
I'm not talking about fru-fru presentations on a plate, or ordering hams from Spain, or deciding what $50. bottle of wine goes with what piece of bone marrow. I'm talking about the enjoyment of food and love of cooking that has sustained me for my entire life, the Italian family I grew up in.
I'm going to try not to rant, but that might be fun as well.
And yes, I have cooked professionally for over 30 years--but that's not what qualifies me here.
More soon.